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When curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.